Seriously? Two months has already flown by? I still feel like I just got here most days. I am definitely enjoying my time here and as my Korean slowly improves I am finding daily life easier to navigate. While I still don't speak much Korean I am starting to understand it more and I am starting to pick out words. It's a strange concept but as my native Korean teachers try to speak more and more English to me it makes me want to try to speak more and more Korean with them. In this unfamiliar country, I feel so genuinely welcomed when I am greeted with an English, "Hello" or "Good Morning". These people definitely don't have to try to speak English to me; I am after all in their country. However, this one small gesture (and trust me for some Hello is the ONLY English they know) makes me feel so welcomed that I am motivated to try to impress them with my Korean. This idea was definitely put to the test this past weekend.
My week started with my co-teacher (CT) asking me on Monday, "Mysti, will you go to teacher's trip?" My reply, "Sure. When is it?" CT, "This weekend." "Oh, okay." So much for the plan to stay and relax this weekend. Last weekend I went to Daegu and was looking forward to a quiet weekend home in Ulsan. Looks like the quiet weekend is on hold.
So like most things in Korea, I don't have any idea what is going to be in store for me and I have learned to "just go with it." By Wednesday the only thing I am told about this weekend's excursion is that we will be eating large crabs and going to a spa, where we will all be getting naked and having the top layer of my skin removed... all in the name of relaxation and beauty. Let the panic begin. Thoughts that ran through my head... getting naked in front of strangers, no problem. Getting naked in front of co-workers, big problem, especially since they don't know I have tattoos and since tattoos are sort of a new idea in Korea, I was really hoping to keep it that way. Ok, just breathe!
Friday arrives. My classes are canceled for the day due to midterms and I am free to head over to the bank and try to figure out how to transfer money to my US bank account. 3-1/2 hours later! mission accomplished! At 14:00 we load the bus for the teacher's trip. As it turns out my 2 CT's are not going on this trip due to other commitments and as far as I know most of the other teachers don't speak very much English; this is going to be interesting. As soon as we load the bus the snacks are distributed. The snacks include a variety of items most of which are familiar by now. Like all foods some are delicious and others are simply ok. I am handed a bag full of dried squid jerky and almonds and a dried fish jerky. The dried squid is surprisingly good with a bit of sweetness and apparently it is traditional to eat this while drinking beer so I am quickly given beer to drink. The dried fish jerky was ok, and definitely not my favorite, but it wasn't bad. Trying the squid won me points with the other teachers, one of which, Min, speaks English much better than she has ever let on.
As we wind our way along the coast it is apparent that the rain will not be letting up anytime soon and that I am foolish to have forgotten my umbrella. Since I didn't really know what to expect on this trip I wasn't sure how to dress or what to pack, so I just sort of guessed - I could have packed better or worse to all in all it was ok. We stopped at a few lookout points along the coast to admire the East Sea (it's NOT called the Sea of Japan). I am told by one teacher that this sea is more beautiful than the Caribbean, where she has vacationed and it is her favorite body of water. She tells me after a year here I will agree with her! We giggle!
On our way to dinner, while I am certain I don't know where we are headed exactly I am beginning to wonder if the driver knows where we are going. We seem to have turned around a few times. The other teachers are beginning to make comments and while I don't understand what they are saying I am sort of getting the gist that this bus driver is horrible. As it grows darker and darker outside and we grow ever more hungry we begin to wind our way up a small narrow stretch of road that might be about the width of the bus and we all hear SSSCCCCRRRRRAAATTTTTCCCCHHHHH. The bus driver has just sideswiped a parked truck. He pulls up the road for a bit and stops, one teacher and he get out and look at the damage. I have no idea what else happens but next thing I know we are on our way again. I look at Min and ask what just happened she replies she's not sure. I asked her if we are just leaving and she said she hoped that the driver would be back when we are eating to leave a note or some contact information. Me, "Is this normal?" Min, "Oh, no! This bus driver is very bad!" We giggle.
We finally made it to dinner in one piece. It is cold and raining out but the rooms for dinner are nice and warm, oh how I love the Ondol! (Ondol is Korea's floor heating system and it is amazing). The crab is delicious and as my companions all dive into the meal with ease I am obviously a novice at eating crab. They definitely help me break apart the crab and get to the meat, however it takes me a bit longer and I am definitely a slower eater. This leads them to ask me with great concern if I like the food. I am trying to explain to them that while I like it very much I am just a slow eater and I also just don't eat that much. I eat small but many times a day. Oh! My next Korean culture lesson: Koreans love eating! They are a country of small people with huge appetites. As I observe them eating I am left in wonderment how they eat so much and yet stay so slim! It truly must be all the spicy foods they eat that keep their metabolisms running high! Amazing. I consume as much delicious crab as I can, and rice, and soup, and side dishes and we are off. I am told we will be sleeping at the spa and my two roommates for the evening Min and So Hyung that in the morning we will get to enjoy the spa! Ok!
After a long day of driving and eating I am ready for bed. I turn in somewhat early. I have no idea what time our activities start in the morning but I am guessing somewhat early. I set my alarm for 6:30am. When I wake up I start to get my things together and I am waiting to hear noises from the other room to give me an indication that our day is starting. Next thing I know at 5 mins to 7:00am I hear Min knock on my door to check if I am awake. She asks me if I have showered and I say not yet. She then proceeds to inform me we will be leaving at 7:30am! CRAP! I get ready as fast as I can and I am out the door with shoes on at 7:29am! While we wait in the lobby for everyone and to check out i am informed we will not be able to enjoy the spa facilities! A large sigh of relief!
Our day begins with us getting on the bus to go have breakfast. In traditional Korean style, breakfast is the same as a lunch or dinner - soup, side dishes (lets not forget the kimchi) and rice. Again my companions are concerned I do not like the food and I once again try to explain that I just don't eat that much and that I usually can't eat that much until I've had my coffee! After breakfast they are very sweet and make sure that I get a shot of coffee. Basically it is weak, sweetened, instant coffee served in a dixie cup. Not exactly my idea of coffee but I am getting used to this and accept the gesture and coffee gratefully. Now we get back on the bus! Min, "Mysti, do you know where we are going?" Me, "No." Min, "We are going to look at fall colors." Nice!
Our first stop of the day is at a park that leads to a temple (as most parks in Korea there is usually at least one temple the park surrounds). We get out and it is raining! I still have no umbrella but I have my hat and it is only a light drizzle so I'm thinking no big deal. One of the male teachers upon seeing my lack of umbrella insists I take his. I try to dissuade him but to no avail! I take the umbrella and begin my stroll/hike to the temple. My hiking partners consist of my two roommates and two of the PE teachers. Basically all of the younger teachers and me! We goof a bit and joke along the way and snap photos. I am constantly asking how to say something in Korean and they are asking me how to say things in English. And while none of the Korean seems to be sticking in my brain for easy recall, I know I will at least understand it when I hear it again.
The fall colors do not disappoint even if my camera's ability to capture them does. The drizzle makes for a nice peaceful walk in the woods, even if it is a bit more paved than I'm used to. When we reach the temple it is amazing! Like most of the other temples it is beautiful and peaceful. I could sit there for hours, but we have a schedule to keep. And since we are running behind schedule a bit (yep bus driver had to turn around a few times getting here too), we only get about 1/2 hour. On our hike back to the bus we catch up with the other teachers, who give me a small history lesson about the temple. I not only read about it but was told by 2 different teachers about this temple. The temple is called Buddha's Shadow and below is a plaque that gives the brief history so I won't bore you with that here. As we make our way back to the bus I am told we need a snack! We sit down for a Korean version of pizza. This is not pizza in the way you normally think, it is basically a flat bread that is cooked with onions and squid. While that may not sound appetizing to a western palate it was quite tasty. I have gotten used to eating squid and basically it's ok. When it is cooked with an amazing sauce it is also amazing, however on it's own there is not much flavor. I ate a little of the squid but dove into the green onion portions. In Korea everyone eats from the same dish so I just pulled parts of the pizza off with chopsticks and ate and drank makkoli. Back on the bus.
After a few more wrong turns and u-turns we finally arrived at Hahoe Folk Village. This site is also part of the UNESCO World Heritage site and Queen Elizabeth II visited this village in 1999! This area is famous for jjimdak, which is a type of steamed chicken dish. (oh good we're eating again) The weather seems to be easing up and we sit down to enjoy our lunch. While everything seems fine and wonderful to me, Min and So Hyung look a bit disappointed. Min asks the server if the can reheat the dish. He goes back and reboils the food for a bit and brings it back to us piping hot! She said because of the bus driver the restaurant was expecting us to be there earlier but we were late.
We finish our lunch and then make our way over to the village. The village is beautiful. It sort of reminds me of the Shire in Lord of the Rings. There are still some residences here but mostly it is for tourists to visit. This village is famous for it's masks and they have a mask museum which we did not have time to explore (I'm thinking another trip here is definitely called for). During our exploration of the village I am getting a history lesson about who would live in which residence of the village. My native teachers are impressed when I point to the large brown pots and say kimchi and they say yes! Anytime I tell them something I know about Korea they are so happy and impressed that I actually know something about their country. They enjoy the fact that I am eager to learn as much as possible. Makes me wonder what past Guest English Teacher's (GETs) were like. They are definitely enthusiastic to share with me as much of their culture and heritage as they possibly can. And now, back on the bus.
Yep we had a few more wrong turns, we stopped again! It was already passed 7:30pm and I was eager to get home. When we stopped I asked what we were doing, and I was told eating! Of course. We went to dinner for some bulgogi on the northern edge of Ulsan. The dinner was delicious and so filling. I have been trying to pick up my speed a little so as to not raise concern but I am still the slow and little eater! The meal ends with kimchi soup and rice! Kimchi soup is probably my favorite way to eat kimchi! It's so hot and spicy and delicious! Such wonderful food from such simple ingredients. While I am not normally a fan of the standard kimchi, I am a huge fan of kimchi soup. Bellies full yet again for the day, we get back on the bus.
As we are rounding everyone up, one of the elder teachers comes up to me and says, "You adopt Korean lifestyle very good. You Korean." Apparently my willingness to try everything and to just go with it has earned me some praise a bit of respect. While I may not ever be able to eat as much as they do and I know I will never actually be Korean, I feel that after this weekend I understand my colleagues better and I have an even greater appreciation of my new home! Two months in and I am really hoping that the next 10 move a bit slower! After two months life lessons have been reaffirmed. If you accept the small gestures with an open mind and heart, no matter how strange or foreign they may be, you will be welcomed with open arms. Besides as mom always said, "Try it, you might actually like it." I agree but also, try not to think about it too much at first and for your own sanity, "Just go with it."
