Moving!!!

Same blog but different location.  I've had a few issues publishing my blog using blogger so I have decided to move the blog over to tumblr.com.  You can find this same blog at http://mystiobservations.tumblr.com/

I hope you continue to like what you read on the new site.

Reflections on my work history

The longer people get to know me the more they realize in my life I have had a LOT of jobs.  When I think about all the jobs I have had I start to wonder if I have some form of ADD, but I've come to realize that it isn't a lack of concentration it's just more of a desire to do and see and experience as much out of life as possible and if I can get paid for that experience all the better.  So for my friends out there that want to know what jobs (gonna include paid and non-paid) I've actually had here it goes... in no particular order:

1. Amusement park ride operator
2. Costumed character at Chuck E Cheeses
3. Costumed character at amusement park
4. EMT (really more of an intern before I took the exam)
5. Certified phelbotomist (also helped certify others)
6. In-N-Out burger
7. business to business sales person selling frame posters
8. pizza delivery driver
9. photographer and make up artist for mall photos
10. Cast member at Disney Store (2x)
11. Student staff assistant (basic office stuff)
12. Theatre electrician
13. Stage actor (not paid but gave me experience for other acting jobs)
14. TV/Movie extra
15. Theatre lighting designer
16. Theatre electrics shop assistant
17. Costco membership
18. Executive assistant for wine rack design company
19. Investment banking (job description is a bit long and complex but not a trader)
20. Bartender
21. Waitress (at a country club and at a restaurant)
22. Receptionist (for a wealth management firm and escrow office)
23. Office manager for structural engineering firm
24. Improv contract performer for Halloween at Sea World
25. Contract performer for Halloween at Magic Mountain
26. Volunteer for National Park Service in the Natural Resource Science
27. Intern horse trainer
28. Lab assistant in biogeochemistry lab
29. Research assistant in geology soils lab
30. Wildlife Assistant (got paid to go hiking and survey animals AWESOME)
31. Barista at Starbucks
32. Native English Teacher in Korea

I think that's it. I might be leaving a couple out but if I am they're repeats of something else like the two retail stores I've worked in (The Gap and Gottchalks).

When I return to the USA, I'll be a graduate student and a TA as well as hopefully return to Starbucks during my studies.  After that who knows where the job search will take me... kinda hoping for South America doing some research... but I'm not gonna plan on anything.

Up next ... 2 months left in Korea!

Back to the USA: 2 MONTHS!!!!

On June 24th I hit the exact 2 month mark in which I will leave Korea.  I was at that point that everything started to hit me.  In a very short time I will be leaving a job, friends, and a country that have in some ways altered my perspective of the world.  While there are many things I am looking forward to when I get back there are SO many things I am going to miss about this place.  In some moments the 2 months can't go by fast enough, but for the most part, they seem to be zooming past me in nanoseconds.

This past weekend I got to hang out with some of my dearest friends I have made while being here.  We had a fantastically Wicked weekend doing and sharing some quality girl time; from checking out the horse races in our dresses and hats to dinner to being memorized by Wicked to dancing the night away.  If these women stay in my life I will truly consider myself blessed. (Angie is a given as our bonds are unbreakable.)

As my time here in Korea winds down and my time with friends grows short I wanted to reflect on some of the highlights of my time here.

1.   Orientation - where lots of friends were made and many Korean firsts were experienced such as drinking soju, hanging outside a mini-mart openly drinking, Korean fried chicken, Korean pork cutlets, and norebang.

2.   Daejeon - climbing the mountain in Daejeon with my sister Angie.  We were not as prepared as we normally are and we were exhausted and a bit cold on the way down but the views from the peak were amazing.

3.   Daegu - My first trip to Daegu where I met all my wonderful Korean friends that I have seen far to little of while being here. I have never laughed so much with new friends than I did that night. And it was one of the best rock shows I went to and where I entered my first beer chugging contest thanks to my friend Jin.

4.   DMZ, the first trip - It was on the first trip to the DMZ that I met some of the people I now consider among my dearest friends and sneaking a picture in the 3rd tunnel was priceless.

5.   Holidays at the pension - Holidays spent with awesome friends made me forget some of the things I was missing during that time.  One of the best holidays I ever experienced.

6.   Kim visiting - Kim's visit came at just the right time. She brought a little bit of home and it having Angie, Kim and I together just always makes life better.

7.   Trips to Costco - always an adventure and usually gives me time to hang out with a good friend over samples and hot dogs and sodas.

8.   All other friends visiting from USA - Who knew Korea would be such a draw. It was amazing to share my Korea experience with friends and reconnect with friends I haven't seen in years.

       

9.   This past Wicked weekend - I pretty much said it at the beginning but I'll say it again. I have a dear fondness and affection for the women I spent last weekend with; they have truly made my Korea experience amazing.

And of course...    

Notes from my students

10. Teaching – I love, love, love teaching these kids. Every day I am surprised and amazed. While every job has its shares of ups and downs, and this job is no exception, the highs definitely outweigh the lows.  There is not one, ok there is one, of these kids that I would not go to the mattresses for in a heartbeat.  They are the hardest part about leaving Korea.  The notes, stickers, drawings, etc. they have made for me I will treasure for the rest of my life.

"Drinking" our tropical cupcakes pre-Wicked

Not too bad after not showering.

Back to the USA

I finally did it. I booked my flight back to the USA and when people ask if I am excited to be heading home there is a part of me that says yes but another part that wonders where the heck home is anymore.

I suppose when it comes down to it most recently Colorado is my home, although I never really considered it home per say.  I will be heading back to Colorado when I make my way back, but  I will only be in Colorado for about 5 1/2 days before I head east to New Hampshire to begin the next phase of my life as a graduate student.  Those days are going to be a whirlwind of getting everything together I need to make the journey east including a phone, a car, and my stuff from the storage unit.  I'm also hoping to squeeze in catching up with as many folks back in Colorado as I can before I head east.

As this idea of heading back to the USA and people around me talking about heading home, I'm left wondering if I actually have a physical home anymore.  Honestly, I don't think I do.  I grew up in California and I do have family there but that is my old home, when I left California I can honestly say I don't foresee ever living there again (but you never know).  So California is a part of who I am and I will always have ties there but it's definitely not home.  My parents don't live in a house in my childhood house or anything so I don't consider their house my home.  I spent the last four years in Colorado living, schooling, and working on my own.  I have amazing friends and I did some really cool stuff when I was there but there was always something missing that made it feel like I could stay in Colorado on any permanent basis.  For the past 9 1/2 months I have lived in Korea and well I always knew my time here was temporary whether it was for 1 year or more, so Korea definitely isn't my home.  So where is home? Does this concept actually exist or is it just a relic notion from childhood?

I think I'm still working on that part.  The short answer is home is where my dog, Dunkin', is, so for now I suppose that is technically Colorado.  As I begin yet another phase in my life I'm not sure where exactly I'll wind up or where the road will take me and I kinda like that idea.  As my life progresses the idea of home and the answer to, "Where are you from?" becomes increasingly difficult to answer in one word and I'm beginning to think I like it that way.

Cheongju: Buddha's Birthday

Why just celebrate your birthday on one day when you can make the celebration last for about a month? And when you happy a Buddha I say let the festivities ring, especially when I get a day off.  So for the weekend of Buddha's Birthday (which coincided with Memorial Day back in the USA) Angie and I, along with ALL of our out of town guests (Terri, Kelly and Katie) headed to Cheongju which is where Angie and Terri's mom spent her childhood and where was once pretty much the center of Buddhism in Korea (don't quote me on that last bit, but I'm pretty sure it's right).

First day was spent exploring the city and with some help from the locals who sent us in the wrong direction then caught up with us to help us find the right direction we managed to find a beautiful temple near-ish the center of the city.  We also explored the market there which is one of the larger old markets in Korea.  In the market you definitely know you are in a smaller city.  Most of the markets IN my city basically just have fish for sale and you go to a grocery for pork, beef, chicken, etc.  In this market you pick the animal out yourself and they kill it right there for you... it doesn't get any fresher.  If you're not used to seeing your dinner's last moments before you take it home to the pot it can be a little upsetting.  I have seen my fair share of chickens, and turkeys (no turkeys in Korea but they have ducks a plenty) lose their lives for a meal, however that didn't prepare me for seeing the dogs.

I know, I know, I know! They eat dog here! No I don't care that they eat dog, who the heck am I to judge them.  Most of the dogs that are food are raised in much the same way we raise cattle or pigs back in the USA.  It's part of their culture, livelihood and survival.  However, when I saw whole dog carcasses in the refrigerated unit, it was all I could do to stop from crying and it broke my heart.  Having been raised with dogs as companions and not food, seeing these animals ready for the pot (well actually they would still need some butchering since they were whole) bothered me.  I grew up knowing full well that cultures, even in Los Angeles, ate dog.  While it is a small percentage of the Korean population that still consumes dog on a regular basis it does happen.  The majority of the population seems to be moving away from dogs as food and definitely more and more dogs are being treated as members of the family the same way we do in the West.  However,  no amount of knowing this fact prepared me for seeing it; all I could see was my own Nala or Dunkin being served on a platter.  That said.  This brief encounter definitely opened my eyes, but it didn't ruin my weekend.

The next day we went and explored the printing museum.  Where they have a moveable block printing press (well the actual thing is over in the Louvre I think but parts of it are here) that pre-dates the Guttenburg printing press by about 100 years.  Angie and I totally geeked out at this museum.  I have to say I really LOVE Korean museums.  They pretty much do everything with dioramas which make it all so much more fun and a little cheesy as well as educational.  After the museum we explored the Fortress where we hiked around, ate some lunch, took some pictures and enjoyed the day.

As always traveling around Korea I continue to develop a love and respect for this country and it's people.  I may not always agree or like what happens but they've captured my heart anyway.  I've put together a quick slide show of the trip that I hope you will enjoy.  Until next time....

9 Months In - 3 Months Out: The little things I miss

Where is this year going?  What the heck have I been doing?  What is left on my Korea to-do list?  As my time here in Korea draws to a close, I am starting to think about everything I am going to miss about Korea, things I miss about back home, what I'm NOT going to miss about Korea and definitely what I don't miss about home.  For some of my friends that are only staying in Korea for 1 year the remaining 3 months can't go by fast enough.  While I definitely have my days in which I totally empathize with that idea, I feel these next 3 months will go by far too quickly.  That said there are some things that I do miss about home that I am looking forward to when I return.  Now of course I miss my dog, my friends and my family, not necessarily in that order but well let's face it dog will almost always get top billing (she says with a wink and a smile).  Here is a list of some things I miss about home.

1. Mexican food. Seriously finding decent Mexican food here in Korea is akin to searching for some ancient relic in the bottom of the sea.  You know it exists, you find something that is ever so close to what you remember but there almost always seems to be something not quite the same about it.  Also forget out $2 tacos.  The food you find satiates the craving for the time being but getting back home where decent Mexican food is relatively easy to find will be a nice welcome.  Also easily finding the ingredients to make Mexican at home will be lovely. Although I'm not sure how good the Mexican food in New Hampshire will be compared to San Diego, but we'll see.

2. Diners. There is nothing I love more than a decent greasy, hole in the wall, diner and from my experience there are no diners in Korea.  There might be some Korean equivalents that serve what might be considered Korean diner food, but I'm talking breakfast of pancakes, bacon, sausage, eggs, waffles, steak and eggs, big burgers, club sandwiches, BLTs, monte cristos, sides of fries, onion rings and even some fish tacos or breakfast burritos.  I'm currently trying to make a list of diners that I need to hit on my road trip from Colorado to New Hampshire.

3. Dark beer.  Delicious, dark, micro-brewed beer that doesn't cost me $9 for a pint.  I can't wait to be able to find my favorite beers at a reasonable price.  While I don't drink that much with the summer months coming on a nice cold beer and a BBQ with friends just seems too perfect.

4. Wine. Yes, kids there is wine here in Korea but it is often very limited and expensive.  Most shops you're limited to a cabernet sauvignon or merlot for red and well I don't really drink white often so I don't really know.  If you ever find yourself in Korea expect to pay approximately double the price of what you would pay for a comparable wine in back in USA.  So you can find a drinkable wine for about $12 it's probably on about $6 back home.

5. Dryers.  Most days I don't really care that I have to hang my clothes to dry.  Heck I'm just grateful I have a washing machine IN my apartment, however since I only have 1 set of bedding and during the winter my laundry can take a couple of days to dry I do miss dryers.  Having fluffy warm bedding  and towels is a wonderful luxury.  Is it a big deal not to have a dryer, no of course not, but there are just some days when ..........

6. No smoking in bars.  Since I lived in California for most of my life I sort of took it for granted when by the time I turned 21 you could no longer smoke in a club or bar.  For me going outside to have a cigarette during the brief periods in my 20's when I was an on and off smoker, it just seemed natural to go outside.  Even when visiting Boston and they still allowed smoking, my friend and I went outside to smoke in freezing cold because smoking inside just felt wrong.  Now as a full non-smoker, the smoking inside bars and clubs sorta ruins the whole experience for me.  Which in some ways has helped me to save money.

7. Cheese. I'm talking real cheese and a variety of cheeses at my local markets.  Yes you can get some cheese here, but you either pay an exorbitant amount for it or you travel to Costco.  At Costco you will find cheese that will allow you to make your mac and cheese, but the selection is significantly smaller than back at home and the prices are well more.  Also if you don't live near a Costco the travel to get there might be double the price of the cheese.  At the local store you can buy processed cheese but let's face it, processed cheese is not cheese.

8. Ovens.  Oh how I miss my oven.  Most of Korean cooking can be done on the stove top so chances are if you come to Korea your apartment will not have an oven.  I miss baking which is one of the things I like to do most when I am stressed out.  Plus I love to share what I bake.  So many times I have wanted to share with my Co-teacher and Korean colleagues some cookies or scones or cup cakes or cakes like we would make back home and I can't because I have no oven.  While I could've bought a small oven for my apartment the price for the length of time I was staying here didn't seem to make sense.  If I was to stay in Korea for even 1 more year I would definitely have bought an oven.

9. Stars. I miss looking up and seeing stars and constellations.  Even when I lived in Los Angeles I could look up and see Orion's belt at the very least.  Here in the cities, you definitely can't.  There are so many neon signs flashing and blinking everywhere that even on a perfectly clear night it is impossible to see a star unless you get well away from the city.

and because I thought I should end with an even number

10.  Junk food.  While Korea has a ton of junk food just like the USA I miss some of my favorites that I can't find easily here like Doritos and Reese's Peanut Butter cups.  Again, thank goodness for Costco but I also don't necessarily want to buy a giant box of them and those two items I can't seem to locate.  Also, while I still think I make some of the best mac and cheese out there sometimes you want that kinda crappy Kraft stuff with the cheesy sauce.

Now probably most of the stuff on this list might be easier to get if I lived in Seoul.  Primarily the thing about these items that I miss is the convenience to acquire or visit them.  For the most part I don't really have a strong desire for these things very often but when I do it will be so nice to satisfy that hankering rather than feeling like to obtain each item you're on a quest initiated by some evil witch to break a spell.

Coming soon... the little things I will miss about Korea.

Beautiful South Korea!

Do You Know South Korea?

Click the above link.  This video was posted on one of my Facebook groups and I liked it so much that I decided to share.  It shows just how beautiful S. Korea really is and is a much better video than what I can probably put together.  This video also reminds me of what I need to do before I leave Korea in August!

I hope you enjoy.

8 Months Later? What the? 4 Months Remain? How? Where?

Confused, baffled and amazed.  How did 8 months go by so quickly?  Although to be completely honest, some days it seems I've been in Korea for years.  Things that once seemed foreign and intimidating are now familiar.  People that have seemed distant because of a language barrier have become friends or at least colleagues in which we exchange greetings and brief conversations.  I'm more comfortable in my job and with the students.  I know how the classes go, I know the students (perhaps not all of them by name but it takes time), I know their strengths and weaknesses.  I know the troublemakers and the outcasts.  I know how to get around Korea and how to navigate and work with computers in a language I just barely read.

Japanese Cheery Blossoms: Gyeong-ju, Korea

And then there are days when it truly feels like I just got here.  Days when I make a rookie mistakes, or when Korea's last minute, vague communication style catches me off guard.  When all the Korean I have learned in the last 8 months takes a vacation from brain and I can't even think how to say, "hello."

While my time here is brief I feel I have gotten quite a bit out of the experience.  So far I have visited the DMZ, traveled all around the country, visited palaces and temples, hiked one of the tallest mountains, experienced lantern and firework festivals, traditional folk villages, and even a K-Pop concert.  I've also eaten pretty much everything that Korea has placed in front of me, and while I will not eat dog or live octopus I think for this former vegetarian that is a pretty bit accomplishment.

So right now I am making my list of what I need to see in Korea in the very short time I have left and the next few months seem to be jam packed.  First, Angie and I have friends and family (Angie's sister Terri), will come to visit in May and June! Can't wait.  During that time we have a lantern festival, Buddha's birthday, and a one more festival during that time.  Also, right before they get here I am participating in a Whale Festival in which I will compete in a dragon (but renamed whale for the event) boat race.  I am also planning a visit to Seoul to see Wicked sometime in June.  In July, I'm hoping to go to the Mud Festival which isn't really cultural but should be a lot of fun.  Then in July or August, whenever our summer vacation is, Angie and I are planning to hit Thailand!  One last hurrah before we become separated by a continent and an ocean for the first time, not counting vacations, since we met in 2000.

Whew with all that I hope all goes according to plan and I stay on budget, so I can come home and start grad school September 4 in New Hampshire! And on that note I'll leave you with some pictures of the most recent teacher's outing in which we went to admire the Japanese cheery blossoms.

Vice Principal and fellow teachers in 2nd boat.

Swan paddle boats... cuteness is everywhere
in Korea

Korea: The 7th Month Itch

Wow that title kinda sounds as though I need to invest in some sort of ointment.  Well I am happy to report that that is not the case, however this last month in Korea has been one of the hardest I have experienced since coming here.  For the past month I have been sick, I've moved and I've told my school I won't be re-signing.  These three things have sorta made me a bit grumpy, which means all the small annoyances of living in Korea (such as constantly being stared at, being treated like I don't exist, being randomly accosted by drunk men, and of course being treated like a talking monkey) have gotten to me a bit more lately.  Supposedly this is right on schedule.

First off it started with me getting sick, yet again!  I was sick from around my birthday to just before St. Patty's Day.  I apparently had an upper respiratory infection that clung to me like barnacles on a grey whale.  While I was sick I was also on my vacation which sucked and I was hosting a friend from back home which really sucked.  While he says the trip lived up to his expectations, I still feel a bit bad that he had to deal with me being a bit grumpy and lethargic.

I also moved my apartments this month.  My new place is now what we would consider in the West to be a true 1 bedroom apartment.  I have a ton of space and have started to do yoga in my living room to help keep me active. Yep I have a living room.  I have other friends with 1 bedrooms but they are generally smaller and while normally I wouldn't mind having a bigger apartment this one just feels too big for me.  I know it sounds like I'm complaining and I really am grateful for the new space, but I think I just felt more of a homey feeling in my old apartment.

Speaking of home, all of the native English teachers, including myself, were recently asked their intentions on re-signing for another year.  My mentor Korean co-teacher sort of hijacked me during lunch and told me I needed to let her know at that moment.  When I told her I had decided not to re-sign and to return to the US, she was very disappointed and no reason I gave seemed to make her understand.  The main reason I am returning to the US is that I recently turned 38 years old.  If I want to pursue teaching as a career I am going to need my MA.  Pretty much no matter what I decide to do when/if I grow up I am going to need at least a MA. MA programs in the US are 2 years, which means at best I would be 40 years old when I am starting a career.  There are still things I want out of life and I just don't feel I can put them off anymore.  While I am certain that the US is not my home, there are some things I need to tidy up there before I get on with the next stage.  Plus, I've already spent one year away from Dunkin' and I'll be damned if I'm gonna be without him for another year.

On the bright side, after being here for 7 months I have finally got all my banking stuff both here and back in US straightened out!  I am also starting to put together a list of stuff I want to still do with my time left here in Korea.  While this month has been tough, with a lot more middles and downs than ups, I am hoping that the next 5 months have a positive trend.  While this rough patch is expected, I am thankful for the friends I have made here that are helping me get through this and keep me laughing!

What's next? Well next post will probably involve a cherry blossom festival and participation in a dragon boat race.

KONY 2012: Watch and DO!

Just another surreal day in Korea

Since I'm speaking of the surreal. This pic taken at
Trick Art show in Busan. Photo by Scottie Hoang.

Since I am on a roll I just thought I would share how my morning went today.  The walk to school began with a rain/snow mix of weather coming down, which is only somewhat odd for my area of Korea.  As I'm trying to navigate my way through the umbrellas I am stopped by ajumma and she asks ME for directions to somewhere that I unfortunately had no idea where it was.  I have no idea why she decided to stop me out of all the other Koreans she could have asked but it definitely made me feel like I may actually look like I know what I am doing in this country.

Then as I turn the corner and head toward my school this cute little halmeoni stopped me to say hello to me, in English.  She then puts out her hand and gestures for my hand, which I give her she then puts her arm around me and proceeds to give me a hug. In my head I'm just thinking, "OK".  She gives me a hug and then says to me in Korean that she loves me at least that is all I was able to understand. She also made a heart gesture with her hands and then half a heart with her arm and indicated I was supposed to make the other half... what could I do? So of course I did it.

As I continued my walk to school I started thinking where in the world is that film crew that should be following me around and capturing these moments on film for me to share.  It also started me thinking as to why I am accepting of this kind of behavior here when back at home there is no way I would tolerate it.  Is it because Koreans, and this is a gross generalization, appear non-threatening?  Am I concerned more about offending strangers here than I am back home so more inclined to "just go with it" here?  How would my life at home be different if I acted the same way?  There is definitely a feeling of safety here in Korea that I don't get at home in the US.  As a matter of fact I feel safer in almost any city outside of the US I have traveled in than any city I have been in within the US.  This may be one of the reasons I am beginning to feel less and less like the USA is my home.  While I am still debating whether to stay in Korea or move on to grad school at the end of my contract, (the pro-con list continues to change on a daily basis), I am beginning to realize that if I do move back to the USA it won't be permanently.  Until I figure everything out I am just going to savor every moment I have in Korea with my fantastic new international friends.

Return to the DMZ

This is how most people imagine the DMZ/JSA. Photo
taken at the museum just above briefing room in JSA.

It was almost 3 months ago that I first visited the DMZ.  There were 8 of us in the group, 7 EPIK teachers and 1 visiting friend.  I had been told from others that the DMZ should not be missed and while I knew I would probably be making the venture there when Kim arrived I somehow felt the need to visit sooner rather than later.  It seemed like an opportune time since Fall was beginning to fade and Seoul was hosting it's lantern festival.  This decision actually seemed to be a good idea since the first time I visited their Dear Leader Kim Jong Il was still alive and this time his son and great successor Kim Jong Un is large and in charge.  I began to wonder how the two trips would differ.  As it turned out, not as much as I thought it might.

Blue UN buildings in JSA... large building in background
is DPRK

Both of the visits to the DMZ were booked using the USO which after some research I was lead to believe is one of, if not the, best tour of the DMZ available and also reasonably priced.  These tours run about 70 USD or about 90,000 KRW (I still was never able to figure out the discrepancy in exchange rates which is why I usually just paid in USD to keep it simple.  They tried to explain it to me but to be honest I just stopped listening).  Since we booked with the same company we also wound up with the same tour guide, Honey.  It was quite nice since this was her last tour with the group as she was moving to Australia within the next week or so.  So same tour company and same tour guide, you can pretty much count on the same experience.  Is the DMZ worth the price of admission, twice? The answer yes.

North Korean Solider momentarily lowering
his binoculars. (photo by Angie Funk)

We began earlier in the morning this 2nd tour than we did the first time and we also headed straight to the Joint Security Area (JSA) which is truly the highlight of the tour.  Your passport gets checked approximately 3 times during this tour.  Once when you get to the USO, once on the bus before leaving the USO, and again when you reach the JSA.  When you travel to the DMZ you are sort of eased into the high security that surrounds the area as you move closer and closer.  First you simply see barbed wire along the river, then your transportation is checked when you cross a bridge and you are no longer able to drive straight but move in a smooth slalom course along the bridge.  The barbed wire increases.  Military presence increases and you are told photography is now at the discretion of your guide.  As you approach the JSA the military presence increases, the barbed wire increases and so do the signs that remind you that live mines are still planted just on the other side of that grassy knoll.

From inside MAC building 1st visit.
Sand is NK, gravel is SK.
(photo by Scottie Hoang)

After a quick "briefing" on the area, you change buses in the JSA to a military tour bus and you tour guide is now a US Army personnel.  You are escorted and told to stay in line, not to make any gestures toward the North Koreans and you are told when you may take photos.  Inside the JSA is one of the few places where you can actually step foot in North Korea or more formally known as DPRK (Democratic People's Republic of Korea).  In this area the South Korean soldiers, known as ROK soldiers (ROK = Republic of Korea but come on how cool is that!), along side the US, stand face to face with their DPRK counter parts. And while it is a myth that they stand all day in some surreal staring contest they are ever watching each other and you.  They definitely stress to you the severity of the situation even while they have a bit of fun with it... like when they tell you that there is a bounty on the DPRK flag in Gaeseong of $10 M for a 1 m X 1 m piece. You just have to cross the barbed wire, pass the mine fields, and snipers, climb the 160 m flag pole, cut a piece of the flag which weighs approximately 600 lbs and is reinforced with steel to keep it from tearing under it's own weight, and get back.

Me in North Korea next to badass
ROK soldier!

Now I'm not going to go into detail of the tour I'll let the photos speak for themselves but I'll share with you some of my reflections on the area and the situation as a whole.  When you are standing in the JSA and you see the DPRK soldier(s) watching your every move it is a bit unnerving and the reality of the situation slaps you in the face.  This isn't a movie.  This is real.  During the tour you are presented with some lighthearted commentary so that you don't want to crawl into a bottle at the end of the tour.  In some ways it seemed that with the death of Kim Jong Il and with the upcoming election here in South Korea a bit more cautious optimism is in the air toward the hope of reunification.  They are still not sure what sort of leader Kim Jong Un will choose to be, but they do hope that with these changes perhaps channels of communication can resume in the North.  There is hope but if you ask if they think it will really happen doubts seem to stay high. The fact is that the North Korean people are starving and are brutalized on a regular basis.  Korea was once known as the Hermit Kingdom and while the South is shedding that image the North is as hermit-like as they come.  The little information available comes from those people that have escaped to the South.  If you want to know what life in North Korea is like I highly recommend Kimjongilia - a documentary put together with testimonies of North Koreans who defected.  These testimonies don't get any more real especially after having been in the DMZ/JSA.

The Giant Flag in Gaeseong, DPRK. I think
they might be compensating for something.
(photo by Angie Funk)

Gaeseong or Propaganda Village in DPRK. It's basically
a large Hollywood set. No one lives here and none
of the buildings are finished... but it looks impressive.

From the first visit...Angie and I
sending our love to the PEOPLE
of North Korea.

My two trips to the DMZ reminded me just how precious and fragile peace is and how sometimes it is truly an illusion.  I was also reminded that we should NEVER judge a nation by their government.  While the South Koreans despise and loathe the North Korean government they send their love and sympathy for it's people which are it's victims and still in some cases members of their families.

A little more love from Angie, Me and Kim.

Alternative Korean Culture: Haesindang Park, Samcheok-si, South Korea

Warning! The pictures in this blog post may not be suitable for younger audiences or for those that lack a crude and childish sense of humor.  

Ok, so we had to do it.  We HAD to go see this Penis Park that is famous in South Korea.  For a country that is quite modest and conservative when it comes to explicit sex the idea that this park exists here at first seems a bit contradictory, but hey most countries cultures contain a plethora of contradictions so why not have fun with one.  Besides, while we were having our fun, we did come across a few Korean families with kids in tow out enjoying the sunshine and relatively warm-ish winter day.

A little background on the park.  The park isn't simply a crude haven for phallic fun! The folk story behind the park is actually quite interesting.  The park is located in an area of Korea that relies heavily on fishing as it's main revenue.  Within the park is a sort of cheesy but interesting fishing museum which illustrates the importance fishing has had to the economy of the area.  That said... the legend of Aebawi and Haesindang taken directly from the Official Site of Korean Tourism (http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=626428)  – "There once lived a young maid who was engaged. One day, the maid took her husband’s boat out to sea to harvest seaweed. Her husband dropped her off at a rock that was at a distance from the beach. After promising to pick her up later, he returned to the beach to do his work. Later, the weather changed, and brought with it strong winds and pummeling waves. The man couldn’t rescue his wife and she ultimately drowned. Since then, the village people caught no fish and some said that it was because of the dead maid. To soothe the spirit of the dead maid, the village people made several wooden carvings and held religious ceremonies on her behalf. After a while, the fish slowly returned and the villagers were able to live comfortably again. The place where the maid died was named Aebawi Rock and the building where the religious ceremony is held twice a year was named Haesindang. The ceremony is still honored today as a traditional folk event."

The majority of the sculptures are really beautiful and others are quite humorous.  While we had fun letting our crude childish antics run amok, we were also in awe by the beauty of the sea that this park overlooks.  The views from the park are well worth the 3,000₩.  To get to the park check out the website above for most recent information.  It takes some effort to get there especially from Ulsan which is where I am but it is well worth the trip.  I might even have to return in spring when park is in bloom (yep that was meant to sound a little dirty)!

Yep, I'm a bit crude!

I really liked the cavities birds had made
into some of the sculptures.

I believe this is a statue of Aebawi

Temple for Aebawi

Inside the temple

Haesindang calling out to Aebawi

We make friends everywhere.

Especially cute furry friends.

Cultural Experiences in Busan and Samcheok: Kim's Visit Part 2

After the long and unexpected hike in Busan we headed over to the Cultural Arts Center for some free traditional Korean performances which included Korean fan dancing, singing, orchestra which included gayageum and geomungo, a monk dance and pungmul which is a traditional dance where the the dancers have long ribbons on their hats and play various drums.  Unfortunately we were not allowed to take any photos of these performances but I did manage to find a video on good ole YouTube of the Pungmul which was probably my favorite performance.  Afterwards we headed to dinner with one of my friends in Busan and he showed us some of his favorite places to grab a drink and hang out.  The next day we headed to a temple by the sea watched as locals continued to pay their respects to their ancestors.

Back in Ulsan, I had to go to work and Angie and Kim headed to Gyeong-ju.  I had gone there the week before with my friend Hannah so I didn't miss it but I did miss hanging with Angie and Kim... so it goes.  That evening we began the long journey to the north eastern coast of Korea a small town known as Samcheok.  From Ulsan there aren't any direct trains or buses so getting there can be a bit tricky.  We first headed to Daegu on Wednesday then woke up early for the bus ride to get up to Samcheok.  We were under the impression the bus ride was going to take 6 hours but it took far less.  We got off the bus, checked into a hotel, and grabbed some lunch before beginning our exploration of this small city.  First thing we did was head over to the tourist information desk and grab maps and guide books of the area. Travel tip if you don't already know this: visiting one of these booths/offices is extremely helpful and should always be one of the first things you do during any travel to a new location.  The maps they provide are almost always free and extremely easy to read and in your language or at least your alphabet. Also, at least here in Korea, they have guidebooks specific to the area which are also free.  Some of these smaller areas have lots of cool stuff off the beaten path that just don't make it into the major guidebooks.  Our main purpose for visiting this area was that we were determined to see a park famous for it's unique statues (which will be the subject of the next post).

Since it is winter and most everything is closed by 5pm or 6pm it was getting on to be about 3pm so we explored what Samcheok had to offer in the time left... we were not disappointed.  Samcheok is full of wonderful small museums and we chose to explore 2 cave museums.  As it turns out Samcheok is famous for cave exploration.  The museums were small and didn't take long to go through but in their beautiful and often cheesy displays lies a charm that makes me thankful I didn't miss them.  Even better was the fact that each of these museums was only about 3,000₩ (or about $2.66 USD).

After the museums we headed over to a pavilion that was close by and were treated to a lovely dusk.  We wandered the pavilion and found out one of its claims to fame is having been used in one of Korea's movies April Snow, which has now been added to the must watch list.  


As evening approached we roamed around the town but soon realized that there wasn't much to do and after the few days of crazy schedule and travel we needed a rest.  We spent the evening relaxing, eating chicken, watching TV, and preparing for our next days journey to Haesindang Park the next day... aka Penis Park.  Let the crude and childish fun begin.

We've been there! It's amazing!

In Korea even the bats and bugs are super cute and
apparently extremely LARGE!